Back in Hanoi we went to organise our bags again, now heading to the mountains and a more tempered climate found in northern vietnam’s highlands.
It was at this point that we discovered the power of the rat, a wirely creature whose ability to chew through anything had yet to be appreciated. Having stored our abags at our travel agency (I’m still thinking of whether to name and shame you), Emily’s small bag now possessed two large holes; a massive chunk out of our Laos lonely planet, the binding of her journal, and half a sun glasses case. The travel agent really couldn’t give a rats ass.
We managed to catch our transfer to the railway station, during which I came to the sickening conclusion I have left my camera battery charging in the rat room – no photos for the next 5 days !! Arriving at the train station the transfer guy organised a motorbike to take me back to pick it up. It was an amazing experience, speeding through Hanoi traffic, no road rules; intersections a crazy blur of cars and bikes coming in all directions. I’m not sure if I preferred going fast or slower; less risk of hitting anything and getting splayed on the pavement, but yet by going at a insane speed, I could not longer smell the strong odour of rice whiskey on my drivers breath. In the end, I got my battery and charger, made it back to the trains station in time – and more weather for the death defying trip that had cost me $2.50 and a change of underwear!

The train was a great surprise, bottled water and nicely folded sheets. We ended up in a 4 sleeper with a German couple we had been travelling with in Halong bay. It had aircon at times, and had sinks in the corridor, so that you didn’t fall up against the toilet walls when brushing your teeth or having a flannel shower. However, Vietnamese trains run on tracks that aren’t straight, making the train lurch too and fro, and the AC died at about 2 am. The 5.15am arrival time became 7 o’clock somehow, so we were please to finally arrive in Lao cai. Strangely we miss the Trans-Siberian and its Russian train attendants, body language and all! Vietnamese train drivers have also never been taught how to use the train clutch – many a time in the night we shuddered to a unexpected stop, only for the engine to kick back in a minute later.