The express boat through to Cambodia – what better way to see the Mekong while travelling! We woke at 5.30am to get breakfast at 6am as we were leaving the hotel at 6.30am – by the time the boat left at 8.30am we were ready for lunch! The boat was like a floating bus, double seats each side, except the AC was provided by an open front windscreen which occasionally gave a free sample of the muddy brown Mekong water! Overall though, it was a comfortable ride, and we got to see farmers working their crops and cattle along the riverside. The change in landscape was interesting, much more plantation and jungle areas on the Cambodian side which was really pretty. The border crossing was about one hour up the river, and was pretty efficient in contrast to other borders controls we’ve passed through – mind you, we did ‘have’ to pay an additional $4 US for the privilege (grrrr!). We changed our remaining Vietnamese dong with the ‘official’ currency exchange lady, who wandered around the waiting hall with wads of cash in her bumbag and changed cash for a terrible exchange rate. After 5 hours in the boat, we began to see Phnom Penh creep slowly into the horizon. As soon as we arrived, we were offered many TukTuk rides from various drivers, ‘where are you going?’, ‘I can arranged a hotel’, ‘where you from?’ Etc. Luckily we knew the direction of our hotel and escaped them quickly! As is customary for us, we had an expensive lunch as our first meal in a new country! Our stomachs needed food.

Phnom Penh is a large busy city, but also very poor. At night, we were approached every 15 min by young children trying to sell bracelets, or old women asking for money. It’s always difficult during these situations as often we would be enjoying a meal or using our iPad – the massive gap between rich and poor right in front of our eyes. It would be easy to give them what they want so they stop hassling us and we feel better about ourselves, but it wouldn’t make a long term sustainable difference in their lives, nor does it give them any skills to provide for themselves in the future. Instead, we’re planning to research a local community charity that will assist them long term and make a contribution that way.

The following day we hired a TukTuk to take us around the city, visiting the Killing Fields and S-21 museum (former prison), and also the Russian Market.
The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek are just out of the city, where 17,000 children, women and men were murdered between 1975-8 during the Khumer Rouge rule. It was a sobering yet peaceful place. It has been well preserved and respected as it should be. Most people had audio guides, which kept voices quiet and contributed to the silent and reflective atmosphere. The atrocities which occurred here are unbelievable, every 20m is a new mass grave or cabinet displaying evidence of the brutal killings. In town we visited S-21, a former high school which was turned into a prison by Khmer Rouge when they came into power. This is where the prisoners (farmers, professionals, educated people, foreigners) were brought to be tortured until they confessed to false accusations of various sorts, with the end punishment being execution. I couldn’t finish the whole exhibition, it was too sickening.

To lighten the mood, we dropped past the Russian market, (named from when the Russians use to shop there, it didn’t sell anything Russian!) which was a cramped and hot market selling lots of souvenirs and asian quality clothes and nic nacs at bargain prices. Now we’re getting closer to the end of our trip, I don’t feel so bad about making my pack a bit heavier!

That evening happened tone the first day of the World Pipeband Champs, so I settled down with my G&T and watched two NZ bands compete (including good friend Libby) very successfully to get into the finals the next day – very exciting!!