The following day we headed out to watch the horse racing. This was at Hui Doloon Khutang, a long stretch of open ground about 28 km out of town which has long been used as the traditional national horse racing venue. In previous years, it has typically been a ‘parking free for all’ on the surrounding hills, dust clouds enveloping the area as people drive off road to avoid the massive traffic jams. This year they have a new paved road, and designated parking areas (although no one pays attention to ticket permits at all!).
The traffic this year is manageable at 9am, thanks to the fact that the feature race (6year old horses) was run early at 7.30am. It’s almost a pilgrimage to watch this race, as to see it means you will be lucky for the next year. The traffic was also helped by a majority of cars driving the wrong way up the 3 lane highway, much to the constination of local police. As the temperature topped out at 26 with a cloudless sky, we headed off to the course, stopping at various food stalls selling deep-fried dumplings (tasty but not at 10am) and looking at the entertainment. It was a massive fair atmosphere, with close to 200,000 people over a huge area. People of all ages of horseback run through the crowd (even 3 yr olds who were tied to their horse), many in beautiful national dress or riding bare back.

The race we had come to see was running late (not unsurprisingly); 3 yr old horses racing over 12km. It’s amazing seeing children as young as 5 (up to age 12), riding that massive distance over uneven ground. The 6 yr old horses (the main event), run over a 15km distance.

We managed to get some seats in the stands; originally ticketed with seat numbers, organisers changed the plan at the last minute allowing any person to sit in reserved seating. The atmosphere was awesome; an entire 4 generations of mothers sitting behind us, all in national costume and medals for various accomplishments that are given out by the government.
After collecting for a health check (mostly teeth to check age), the horses moved up the course for the start 12 km away. They soon turned into a massive dust cloud as they advanced into the distance.
Over an hour later, the cloud reappeared, coming towards the finish line with a final sprint between the two leading horses one of which was riding was bare back – ow! The riders and horses looked incredibly tired, and not unsurprisingly a few riderless horses ones rode through.

After a long traffic-clogged journey back into town, we went to a traditional cultural show. Despite the loud music and flashing lights, it was an amazing display of the Mogolian culture that we had seen in the raw over the last few days. The Mongolian throat singing with its amazing harmonics and Mongolian harp were particular highlights.

The Nadaan festival is a must see – a beautiful show of national pride and sportsmanship.